Curly Hair Care Routine: The Italian Method Step by Step

Curly hair is, by its very nature, the driest hair type there is. The reason is purely physical: sebum, the scalp's own moisturiser, travels easily down a straight hair shaft from root to tip. On a spiral, it gets stuck within the first few centimetres — every twist and turn is an obstacle it cannot cross. The result is hair that may feel normal at the roots but stays chronically dry, rough and frizz-prone along the lengths and ends. The Italian school of professional hair care starts from a clear principle: curls are not something to be tamed or straightened into submission. They need to be fed, hydrated and allowed to be exactly what they are.

Why curls need special care

If sebum never reaches the ends, your routine has to do that job instead. This is why a curly routine is not simply a straight-hair routine with softer products — it is a different system, where every step has a specific purpose.

The structure of the hair itself is the second difference. At every bend of the curl, the cuticle scales lift slightly, so moisture escapes faster and the environment — sun, wind, dry indoor air, salt water — leaves a deeper mark. This is why curls react so dramatically to weather: humid air brings frizz, dry air brings crunch.

The third factor is mechanical fragility. A spiral strand snaps more easily than a straight one, especially when brushed dry or rubbed roughly with a terry towel. Good curl care is therefore always a balance of three things: gentle cleansing, consistent hydration and as little mechanical stress as possible.

Cleansing without stripping

The first and most common mistake is washing too aggressively. A shampoo built on harsh sulfates strips away the little natural oil curls have, leaving them squeaky, tangled and parched. Curls want a mild, sulfate-free or gently formulated shampoo that cleans the scalp without scouring the lengths.

Frequency matters just as much. Curly hair does not need daily washing — for most people, two or three washes a week are enough. On the days in between, you can simply refresh the curls with water and reactivate their shape with a touch of leave-in product. A good starting point is a dedicated curl shampoo such as Gate Wash Ocean 3.2 Curls Shampoo, which cleanses softly and leaves the curl elastic rather than dry.

Wash the scalp, not the lengths: massage the shampoo into the roots with your fingertips and let the foam simply rinse through the rest. That is all the lengths need.

Hydration and curl definition

After cleansing, the real work of curl care begins: giving water and nutrients back. Once a week, treat the hair to a deep conditioning mask — for example the argan-based Argania Sahara Secrets Mask, left in for 5–10 minutes to fill the damaged spots in the cuticle and make the curl heavier, calmer and easier to shape.

Styling fluid

Definition means the curl holds together as a clear, springy spiral instead of dissolving into a cloud of stray frizz. To get there, apply a light fluid or gel-cream to damp hair; it encapsulates the curl and seals moisture inside. Gate 0.4 Ocean Definer Curls works exactly this way: it gives the curl bounce and shape without a sticky or rigid cast.

Nourishing oil

Oil is the finishing touch of any curly routine. A few drops on dry or nearly dry hair smooth the surface, add shine and protect the ends. A classic choice is Argania Sahara Secrets Oil; if you prefer a lighter texture, try Beauty Experience Elisir Oil. The amount is everything: start with one or two drops, because too much oil weighs the curl down and turns definition into greasiness.

The Italian styling method step by step

The drying logic taught in Italian salons is simple and perfectly repeatable at home:

1. Start with wet hair. After washing, remove excess water by gently pressing — with a microfibre towel or a cotton T-shirt, never by rubbing with terry cloth. The curl should stay properly damp.
2. Apply the product with the scrunch technique. Spread the fluid or cream between your palms and squeeze the hair in handfuls, working from the ends upwards towards the roots. That squeezing motion is what moulds the spiral.
3. Dry with a diffuser or air-dry. Keep the diffuser on low or medium heat with gentle airflow, and cradle the curls upwards in its bowl. If you have the time, letting the hair air-dry is the gentlest option of all.
4. Do not touch the curls until they are completely dry. This is the hardest and the most important rule of the method. Every touch in the half-dry phase breaks the curl pattern and creates frizz.
5. Once the hair is dry, you can gently shake the curls loose with your fingers and add a drop of oil for shine.

Men's curls: a short routine

The logic for short curls is the same — the routine is just shorter. Wash with a mild shampoo two or three times a week, pat dry with a towel and work a small amount of Man Curl Fluid Definer through damp hair with your fingers, finishing with a light scrunch. Let it air-dry or hit it briefly with a diffuser. The whole routine takes under two minutes and keeps curls in shape without the stiffness of gel or the stickiness of mousse. One rule applies at any length: never rub wet curls into a tangle with a towel.

What to avoid

• Harsh sulfates and daily washing — they strip the curl of what little natural moisture it has.
• Brushing dry curls — a brush tears the spiral apart and leaves nothing but frizz behind. Comb only wet hair, with conditioner in it, using a wide-tooth comb.
• Silicone overload — heavy layers of silicones build up into a film that makes curls limp and lifeless, and then demands even harsher washing to remove.
• Hot styling without protection — high heat evaporates moisture precisely where there is too little of it already.

Frequently asked questions

How often should I wash curly hair?

For most people, two to three times a week is right. If your scalp gets oily faster, wash the scalp more often, but do not lather the lengths every time. Between washes, refreshing the curls with water and a small amount of leave-in product is enough.

Can curly hair be combed at all?

Yes — but only when wet. The best moment is in the shower, with conditioner or a mask in the hair, when a wide-tooth comb glides through without snapping strands. Combing curls dry is the most reliable way to create frizz.

Diffuser or air-drying — which is better?

Both work; the choice depends on time and the result you want. Air-drying is the gentlest and gives the most natural curl. A diffuser on low settings adds root volume and a springier, more defined curl, and is far more practical in the cold season. Browse the full curl care selection in our catalogue.